Emily and Linda’s Travel Blog

I realized too late that my last post got uploaded before it was complete (meant to hit Save as Draft, but must have hit Save and Publish by mistake).  I've now posted the photos and extra text that I'd intended to add so you can go back to the previous post to see them if you have the interest.  

The second installment of our Netherlands outing was a visit to a group (fleet?) of windmills.  You really got a sense of the lowlands and their flat beauty - especially since we were blessed by a sunny day with dramatic cloudscapes.   

Mel got this fabulous shot of our tour manager Rene and his trainee toting our cheese purchases back to the boat so we could be hands free for our windmills tour.

As you enter the area where the historic windmills are situated, there's an odd bit of art - a basket, "floating" in one of the canals.  In the basket is a baby and a cat - "Wiegje van Beatrijs" (Beatrice's cradle).  The sign accompanying it says "On 19 November 1421, the St. Elisabeth's Flood took place.  Inextricably linked to this disaster and the village of Kinderdijk is the legend about the child Beatrice, whose cradle washed up on the riverbank near the dyke in what is now called Kinderdijk.  The cradel also contained a cat that kept the cradle balanced by jumping back and forth.  This artwork, by the artist Roel Teeuwen, depicts the legend's story"

The video I shared in my last post talks about how the windmills aren't in use anymore, but we got a different story from our guide.  To be a windmiller, you have to go through quite extensive training on how to operate the windmill and keep it maintained.  There is evidently a long waiting list to become windmillers - who live in the windmill or just beside it.  They are no longer regularly in use to pump water since that's done by electric pumps now, but if the electricity ever fails, the windmills have to be able to take over the work so both the mill itself and the milers have to be ready.  The mills get tested periodically to make sure they're functioning.  

We visited one mill that's maintained as a tourist site to give a sense of the life of a miller and family.  The round part near the top rotates so that the blades of the windmill can face the best wind direction - it's operated by the thing that looks like a captain's wheel at the bottom right.  

Inside the mill is a very compact living quarters with a bed built into the wall  (I would have loved that little cozy space as a kid, but wonder how it worked out for the couple who likely shared it year round).  The plaque in this room said that it was the only heated room in the house.  The kids slept upstairs (I didn't even attempt the ladder to get up there so I have no photos of their quarters).

After the tour, we got to meet one of the current millers - though he's only there part time now.  He told us he'd been working that mill for 30 years.  

Before we left, we got one more group shot

Monday 5/26 was the last full day of our cruise on the Rhine.  Our tour manager Rene is Dutch so he offered a talk in the morning on "All Things Dutch" about Dutch culture and including a taste of Jenever, a predecessor of gin, made from Juniper berries.  Maybe in a mixed drink, but for me a bit much taken straight, even with the cute little shot glasses.  

The morning walking tour in Cologne seemed like a bit too feet-intensive for me so I stayed on the ship and enjoyed some quiet time in the very pleasant lounge. It’s sometimes hard for me to overcome the internal messages about how I should be out there taking advantage of every opportunity to see things. But I’ve come to realize that I need to manage my energy and walking capacity. The folks that did go on the morning tour sent some photos:

As you walk around Cologne, you see gold paving stones that commemorate Jewish citizens of Cologne who were deported and killed.  Sorry you can’t read this one  the closeup didn’t come out  

This is a monument to men who died of AIDS The plaque says, “Cold Corner Nomadic Memory 92, This installation commemorates people who died as a result of AIDS, It is part of the ‘Denkraum: Names and Stones’ project by the German AIDS Foundation and the artist Tom Fechht, Aidshilfe Köln eV.  Further information and a list of names can be found at www.aidshilfe-koeln/de/nus.” (The names are engraved in the paving stones - might have to expand the view to see them  

One of the main landmarks in Cologne/Köln is the Cathedral. Most of the area that surrounds it was decimated during the Allied  bombing in WWII, but the cathedral survived, though damaged (and still being restored ).  It is still one of the 3 tallest churches in the world  

[he first two shots are borrowed from https://mymerrymessygermanlife.com/visiting-the-cologne-cathedral/ ]

This one is more modern and was created by Gerhard Richter to replace a window damaged in the bombing, unveiled in 2007.  Linda, ever the fan of abstract art, pronounced it her favorite, though some critics are disturbed by its modernness, feeling like it didn’t belong in the gothic cathedral   

In the afternoon, Diana, Melissa, Chris and I went to the hokey, but fun Time Ride Köln 1926 virtual reality attraction. We first entered a recreation of a milliner’s shop with a live guide and virtual milliner who explained the craft. Diana tried on one of the hats on offer

Next we boarded a restored street car and donned virtual reality glasses to “enter” the city of 1926. The car rattled and shook over the streets. With a little added imagination, you could feel like you were transported back in time  

A few more from the afternoon and later in the evening

One last shot from the boat in the Rhine River Gorge:.  

Saturday was the only prolonged daytime travel on the boat.  For a good reason - we were cruising through the Middle Rhine Gorge, a very scenic stretch marked by multiple castles on the banks as well as towns and vineyards.  I tried to keep track of which castle was which, but when I looked at my list and my pictures, I wasn't so clear about it after all.  So forgive me if I mis-identify any.  I've done my best.  

Our tour manager, Rene was an amazing narrator.  His ability to tell the stories of the castles (for several hours) and communities along the way was truly impressive.  We've encountered many tour managers and guides in our international travels, but he was certainly among best - knowledgeable, very funny, calm in the face of passengers’ worries and nudging, concerned for our welfare and ready to help in any way that he could (special appreciation from me since he really looked out for me in terms of mobility issues and helped me find ways to enjoy the day trips without too much physical stress).  

The vineyards grow on very steep riverbanks where the grapes have to be harvested by hand.  This is where a lot of the grapes for Rhine Rieslings, Moselles, Chardonnays and other wines are grown.  

The day was sunny and crisp, but pretty chilly as you can see by our attire and extra layers. Worth every shiver though.  Definitely one of the highlights of the cruise for me  

The Middle Rhine Gorge morning is featured on the PBS commercials.  It didn’t disappoint.  In all, there were 20 castles/embattlements, but here are a few.  I’m struggling with formatting so I’ll list them in order

1) Nollig “Castle” c.1300- actually part of the fortifications for the town of Lorch am Rhein

2) Stahleck Castle 12th century, but repeatedly attacked in the 17t century and rebuilt in 1909  Now a youth hostel 

3) Sooneck Castle built in 1834 by the CrownPrince of Prussia

4) Reichtenstein Castle a reconstructed Neo-Gothic castle

5) Rheinstein Castle 14th century- complete with a drawbridge and ivy covered facade

 This one, the Pfalzgrafenstein Castle is specially featured in the ads preceding Masterpiece Mysteries etc.- perhaps because it’s in the river itself so it’s easier to photograph. It was a toll station on the river.  Now a museum that can be reached by ferry.  

One of the later segments of the trip was through a tight bend in the river where currents are treacherous and the famous Lorelei Rock juts out to ensnare ships. The Lorelei was a mythical siren whose beauty and song lured passing sailors to their deaths. 

Friday we woke up in Speyer, which was once a center of Ashkenazic life in Germany. Accoding to our Viking materials, there had been recurring pogroms there. However in 1084, Speyer’s Bishop issued an invitation to Jews to settle there. According to our guide, “it was a business development move, since moneylending was forbidden for Christians and the city needed funds for the new cathedral….In return, the Bishop offered rights and protections that until then were unprecedented in Europe.” A strong Jewish community grew there at the time. You can still see the remains of an 1104 synagogue and a mikvah from 1126. 

[Apologies for the earlier blank post. Hit the wrong button. It also means I couldn’t fully edit this post so there may be some errors/omissions that I’ll have to correct later]

Friday evening, some elected to stay on board while Linda and I opted for the trip to a winery in the Eberbach Monastery, founded by an Augustinian order, but “handed over” to Benedictine Monks in 1131.  It’s now a secularly managed winery and events space/education center/museum  

We walked around the grounds and heard about the rigorous lives of the Benedictines. My summary: Lots of prayer, not much sleep, and they had to invite lay-brothers into the monastery because there was a lot of work to do when not praying.  They also offered herbal medicine and food to the struggling community around them  (Sadly we didn’t get to visit their herb garden on this visit).  

The monastery is supposed to be one of the best restored in Europe (the lion on the lawn is some promotion going on all around the area - like the bulls awhile back in NYC)  

I’ll bent the monks would have appreciated this more modern approach to mowing the lawns:

Next we were led into the barrel room of the old winery for a tasting of 3 different Reislings, the specialty of the winery and the region. All tasty in my opinion, though differing in sweetness to dryness  

After the tasting, we took a tour of some of the other ares in the compound, including the monks’ meeting room and the monastery church. They asked for someone to sing to demonstrate the acoustics which were amazing (our guide said the sound lasts for 7 seconds). After my wine tasting, I was willing to sing a hymn, but there’s no picture or recording sadly. The sound truly did linger  I recall learning in College Glee Club that the music of the time was meant to layer as it progressed  

Last stop on the tour was the collection of wine presses used through the years. Truly impressive in their size (and when you consider they were operated by hand). I wish I‘d taken a shot with a person for scale. 

After the tour we had a lovely dinner in the old refectory and now that we were newly acquainted, we could choose the right wine to go with our meals. As often happens, we were too involved in food and conversation to take pictures of the meal, but it was very good. 

Strasbourg is in the Alsace region (one of those ping-pong areas that was German-French-German-French...).  It's currently in France, but when my great grandparents and Diana's ancestors lived there, it was Germany.  The whole crew embarked on the Canal Cruise Through Petite France.  It was a rainy day so we were glad for the glass-covered canal boat, but it made taking pictures challenging.  Here are a few I shot:

Later we were bussed into the main part of town to have a wander, case the patisseries, and see the famous Gothic cathedral.  Our guide told us it was the world's tallest building from 1647 to 1874.  

The cathedral is also famous for it's astronomical clock.  There was actually an original one constructed around 1354. The one we visited was the second clock, completed in 1574.  There was a whole lot of politics (Catholic-Protestant-Catholic-Protestant and French-German-French-German) that I didn't completely follow, but you get the idea.  The second clock stopped working in 1788 and stood still unitl 1838 when a new clock maker, Jean-Baptiste Schwilgue  began to rebuild it.  According to our guide, he decided as a child that he would make it work again and spent the next 30 years acquiring the knowledge and skills to do so.  He trained his team for a year before they began work. The clock has a planetary calendar that shows sun and moon in their correct positions (and the moon in its correct phase). Wikipedia says that the gold hands show mean solar time and the silver hands show Central European Time.  There's also a rooster that crows every day at 12:30 as the apostles move around the clock.  We missed that part, but did get to see the phases of man's life (from baby to skeleton) move around.  

Wenesday afternoon, Chris, Marg, and Diana chose to go on a tour of the Colmar  WW II Museum and Memorial.  As per the tour description, "Visit the Colmar Pocket, where Allied forces pushed back Nazi troops during the brutal winter of 1944–1945. US forces fought alongside the French Army to overthrow the German occupation of this key region."  It also included the story of Audie Murphy, a US soldkier and later movie star whose "heroic stand changed the course of this pivotal campaign." 

I opted for the tour of the Medieval Village of Colmar, a town in France.  We took a "train" ride (more like a motorized Disney train with cars behind it) around the restored medieval town with 9th-century streets, 13th century Gothic churches and the orginal Old Town.  I found it a little Disney-esque in a manicured cutesy way, but the guide pointed out that unlike some similar sites, these buildings are all in active business and residential use.  Because of the winding streets and the curving of the "train", it was hard to get clear shots, but here are a few to give you a taste:

Colmar is also the home of Frederic Auguste Barholdi, creator of the Statue of Liberty.  Here is a small statue of his, known as the Statue du Petit Vigneron (Statue of the LIttle Winemaker).

There's also a statue of Bartholdi himself with a little Liberty just behind his shoulder in the Parc du Chateau D'eau (the Water Tower Park) 

Well the wi-fi on the ship was reeeaaallly slow. Just couldn’t get things to upload. Then once we were on land in  Amsterdam, we were busy all day seeing the city and crashing in the evening.  Now back in Brooklyn and will try to catch up (and hope my aging brain can reconstruct the stories based on the cruise itineraries and my photos).  

We left Basel on the evening of the 20th and arived the next day in Breissach - our base for exploring the Black Forest and environs.  Linda and Mel were brave enough to choose the E-bike trip through the forest (more on that later).  The rest of us took a bus tour of the Black Forest.  I was surprised that the Black Forest is largely mountainous (as our guide pointed out, the mountains are not as high as what we call mountains in the US, but we got up to about 3000 feet and the mountains are as high as 4800 ft).  It's mostly a farming area - hard farming on rocky steep slopes.  Not an easy life in the old days and still not much easier today.  One needed to have a lot of kids to do all the work of raising cattle,sheep and pigs, growing potatoes and cabbage, and making the famous Black Forest ham. Nowadays, people often need to add some form of agro-tourism or similar to make it work.  In centuries past, before global warming made winters less harsh, one way that people kept busy and productive was to carve wooden animals etc. and in some households/workshops, that also developed into production of cuckoo clocks (which actually originated there in Germany, not in Switzerland as is commonly believed).  

Our bus trip took us to a pretty touristy site in the mountains (If you've ever been to Solvang, CA, you have a sense of it), but it was interesting despite the packaging for visitors. There was a talk about cuckoo clocks, a visit to a glass blowing workshop, and a  demonstration on how to make the famous Black Forest Cake (with samples).  I have to admit I skipped those so I don't have any photos, but maybe my companions will provide some I can add later.  

Instead, I went on the "stroll" to a very old chapel nearby.  The stroll turned out to have a pretty steep grade and some hair-raising steps with no bannister, but with my trusty walking sticks, I managed to survive and see St. Oswald's Chapel, consecrated in 1148 with gothic and baroque extensions added between then and 1719.  The walk took us past a stream and an old railroad bridge that was destroyed during WWII in an attempt to slow transport of goods to German troops.  It's since been restored and is functional again

Under the church was an ossuary - a collection of bones stored on sacred ground. Our guide explained that they had originally been buried in the church graveyard, but the ground eroded and shifted, necessitating removal of the bones to the space under the chapel. 

After the hike, we piled into the bus to head back to the ship for lunch. 

MEANWHILE: 

Linda and Mel, the brave adventurers, were on an all-day E-bike trip through the Black Forest. Linda had some worries initially about whether she would be able to handle it, but they both came through it OK and were grateful for the boost the e-bikes give the rider - especially when going up hills.  They passed through small towns, stopping for cake and coffee at one point and for lunch in a small restaurant.  Their last stop was at a local pig farm where the farmer family talked about their life raising pigs and running a farm-to-table restaurant that's very popular with the locals.  

It was a very cloudy and ominous-looking day, but the rain held off... Until the sky opened just at the last big climb.  Both riders were drenched, but intact.  Thankfully they were offered scnapps only after the biking was done (Mel said it tasted like a Yankee Candle; Linda had a teeny sip and decided no more).  Then they were transported back to the ship by van.  Both said it was one of their favorite days on the cruise. 

One culinary factoid I found interesting was that the famous Black Forest Ham developed out of necessity.  During the harsh winters, the livestock and the family lived in basically sealed up houses - all the smoke from cooking or heating filled the house.  Hams were hung from the ceiling and over the winter months were smoked as a consequence of being in that sealed up house.  Now of course, they do it in a more controlled way.